Photo Credit: Erin Elise Enyinda
At his first trunk show at Gus Mayer in Birmingham, designer Bach Mai reflects on his Southern roots, Asian American heritage, the power of fashion and his vision for an American couture house.
By Erin Elise Enyinda | Live Affirmed Magazine
When Bach Mai talks about glamour, he isn't simply talking about beautiful clothes. He's talking about the women who shaped his understanding of femininity, the cultures that continue to influence his creative identity and the extraordinary feeling that comes when a woman puts on something that makes her feel unstoppable.
I recently had the pleasure of catching up with Mai during a special trunk show at Gus Mayer in Birmingham, Alabama. While the luxury retailer has carried his designs and previously hosted him for a trunk show at its Nashville location, this marked his first trunk show at the Birmingham store. The occasion offered local fashion enthusiasts an opportunity to connect with the designer behind the pieces and discover more about his creative vision.
For a designer whose understanding of glamour is so deeply connected to his Southern upbringing, the Birmingham setting felt particularly fitting.
With his namesake label celebrating five years, Mai is reflecting on the influences that have shaped his work while looking ahead to an even more ambitious future. His vision is one rooted in craftsmanship, cultural identity and a desire to create clothing that allows women to feel as extraordinary as they are.
At the heart of that vision are three creative pillars.
The first is his admiration for mid-century haute couture, particularly designers such as Christian Dior and Charles James, whose work helped define what Mai considers the golden age of couture. The second is Americana, influenced by American sportswear and his upbringing in Texas. The third is his Asian American heritage.
"I'm a really proud Asian American," Mai shared, explaining how his Vietnamese background and the broader Asian American experience influence his approach to design.
His work draws from Vietnamese, Japanese, Korean and Chinese cultural influences, creating an aesthetic that embraces the many dimensions of his identity rather than limiting itself to a single interpretation of heritage.
What makes his perspective especially interesting is how naturally those influences coexist. For Mai, cultural identity is not something separate from creativity. It is part of the language through which he expresses himself.
And then, of course, there is Texas.
"I think there's this idea of Southern glamour. It's very real," he said.
Having grown up surrounded by women who embraced glamour and femininity, Mai credits those early impressions with shaping the way he approaches dressing women today.
That understanding of glamour extends beyond dramatic silhouettes or beautiful fabrics. It is about how clothing can transform the way a woman carries herself.
Mai recently brought that philosophy to the 2026 CFDA Fashion Awards, dressing actress and fellow Houstonian Liza Koshy in an all-black look. The moment followed a previous CFDA appearance in which he dressed her in ivory.
For their latest collaboration, he wanted something that felt empowering, sexy and impactful, while allowing Koshy to enjoy the moment and feel completely herself.
It's a philosophy that speaks to the relationship between fashion and confidence.
"I think fashion has such an amazing ability to empower women," he explained.
When I asked what he believes women are looking for in fashion today, his answer went beyond trends or seasonal expectations.
He wants women to experience clothing as a form of empowerment, something that allows them to express themselves authentically while moving through the world with confidence.
For Mai, the right garment can become "like armor" that allows a woman to take on the world around her.
It's an interesting perspective at a time when conversations around femininity continue to evolve. Women are redefining what it means to feel beautiful, powerful and comfortable in their own identities. Mai's approach suggests those qualities don't have to compete with one another.
A woman can be feminine and commanding. Glamorous and practical. Soft and powerful.
And perhaps that is where his understanding of modern luxury becomes most compelling.
The beauty of becoming
Photo Credit: Erin Elise Enyinda
As our conversation turned toward reinvention, Mai offered a perspective that felt especially relevant to the creative journey.
Although his brand continues to evolve, he doesn't necessarily view reinvention as abandoning one's original identity.
Reflecting on creative ideas he began exploring when he was just 15 years old, Mai explained how remarkably consistent his design interests have remained.
After recently revisiting some of his earlier designs, he recognized that many of the ideas that fascinated him as a teenager remain central to his work today.
For Mai, reinvention can take many forms.
"It can be drastic. It can be bold. It can also be something that happens slowly over time and more of an evolution."
That distinction is important.
While his collections may introduce new silhouettes, inspirations and creative worlds each season, the foundation of his design philosophy remains remarkably consistent.
One collection might transport audiences into a temple floating through space, while another could explore the romance of an English countryside labyrinth. The storytelling changes, but the designer's creative identity remains recognizable.
Now, five years into building his label, Mai is focusing on refining that identity even further.
He is challenging himself to communicate the brand's message more clearly and develop a deeper understanding of the women he hopes to dress.
It's a reminder that growth isn't always about becoming someone entirely different. Sometimes it is about gaining the clarity to become more fully who you have always been.
A signature that tells the story
Photo Credit: Erin Elise Enyinda
Among the pieces featured during his Birmingham visit, one design remains especially meaningful to Mai: the sculpted-back bomber jacket.
The jacket has become a signature of his label, and he admits to wearing it almost every day.
For him, the piece represents the intersection of everything that defines his creative universe.
"It has elements of '50s couture. It has elements of American sportswear and also has elements of Asian heritage in it," he explained.
The design carries the structure and sculptural influence of traditional couture while embracing the familiarity and versatility of American sportswear.
It's also a piece that reflects his desire to make exceptional design relevant to the lives of modern women.
Mai considers it an ideal introduction for women discovering his brand for the first time.
Behind his craftsmanship is an enduring admiration for the artistry of couture, something he credits legendary designer John Galliano with inspiring.
Mai described working with Galliano as a dream he could scarcely have imagined becoming reality.
"He was the reason I wanted to become a fashion designer," he shared, calling the opportunity to learn from Galliano a gift of a lifetime.
That experience helped deepen his appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship that continue to guide his own creative direction.
Building an American couture house
Photo Credit: Erin Elise Enyinda
While Mai has already established a recognizable design identity, his ambitions extend far beyond individual collections.
His dream is to build an American couture house, one that defines glamour through the perspective of contemporary American women while honoring exceptional craftsmanship.
Everything produced by his label is proudly made in New York City, a commitment that reflects the importance he places on American fashion production.
For Mai, the future of American couture isn't simply about recreating the traditions of European fashion houses. It is about developing a distinct perspective on American glamour, shaped by the lives, identities and experiences of the women who wear his designs.
That vision is both personal and expansive.
It reflects a designer who appreciates the romance of fashion history but understands that today's women are writing their own stories.
And after five years, he recognizes there is still much to discover.
As our conversation came to a close, what stayed with me most was his understanding of the relationship between fashion and identity.
His work celebrates the influences that make us who we are while leaving room for the women we are still becoming.
Perhaps that's the beauty of Bach Mai's approach to glamour. It doesn't ask women to choose between elegance and strength, tradition and individuality, or the people they've been and those they hope to become.
Instead, it makes room for all of it.
And in the process, Mai is creating more than beautiful clothing. He is continuing to define what American glamour can look and feel like for a new generation of women.
That distinction makes the introduction more accurate without overstating the occasion. It also keeps the focus where it belongs: your exclusive conversation with Bach Mai, rather than making the story primarily about the trunk show.